The Grand Bazaar

We all left the kaymak joint, well fed, but not stuffed, just perfect! We said goodbye to our Dutch homegirl and followed Nurdan as she navigated us through the Besiktas market back to the main street. We hailed a couple of cabs en route to the grand bazaar.

Nurdan, myself and I believe Tam (or maybe it was Christine) got in the same cab, the rest followed in a different. Our savvy cab driver recognized our American accent and took the American detour towards the market. Nurdan argued with the dude, insisting that he was going the 'extended' way, but he paid no attention... I'm sorta used to, and expect to pay the 'American' tax from time to time! I figure it's a privilege of having the blue passport!

Driving in Istanbul is brilliant, More civilized than Iran and India, but some of the same rules apply. For example, the lane markers serve no purpose. Drivers often tend to drive in between the lanes.

We ended up meeting the others at the grand bazaar, and it was indeed, GRAND! They were somehow not charged the American tax, sorta ironic given that Nurdan (the only official local), was with us. ;)

The grand bazaar was quite impressive, printed words (especially my printed words) willl not do it justice. It felt like a never ending maze with shops and merchandise extending in every direction, every where you turned, there were more shops and more eager savvy merchants trying to sell you things that you don't need. The environment induces this desire to negotiate and haggle! I love it...

What I found interesting was that the grand bazaar was really only a tourist destination as opposed to a place for the locals to do shopping. This was different than the bazaars in Tehran, where you'd typically find locals.

We talked to various shop owners, negotiated on items, but we were mere green peas in this mature trade that has lived far beyond our grandparents generation. Nurdan was the envy of a few shopkeepers... a charming merchant approached her, said something poetic about a rose and her nose, and placed a bracelet on her wrist.

At one point, while the girls were haggling on some merchandise, I started to chat to a couple of shop owners. They informed me that their best customers were typically American or British. That they don't really like doing business with patrons who are accompanied by locals, maintaining that the locals think they know more than they do. I maintain that our guide/hostess did know more than they did!

We decided to take a break inside a small coffee shop in the center of the bazaar. Some ordered iced coffee drinks, others fresh squeezed orange juice, Nurdan and I went for the Turkish Coffee! It was served blistering hot, and THICK! My understanding is that you're only really supposed to drink the first half or so of the cup, cause the rest is practically solid! One sip and I was bouncing off the walls. Our hostess, Nurdan, is not only a savvy financier, but she can also read fortunes. So after I had completed enjoying the coffee, I was instructed to place the saucer on the lid of the cup and flip it over, let it rest till the remaining coffee dried and settled... The question came up as to when one would know that the coffee had dried/settled. The answer was to feel the bottom of the cup; The settling is complete if it's no longer hot! So, when the remains had settled, Nurdan attempted to read my fortune.

We completed our tour in the bazaar; Kubs left with a Purse, Christine with some hand crafted plates, and Tam scored some Fez hats.